تاريخ القهوة.. شرابٌ مغليّ من تراث العرب القديم إلى العالم

تاريخ القهوة.. شرابٌ مغليّ من تراث العرب القديم إلى العالم

قيل قديماً للقهوة «قحوي»، وربما لا يزال هذا اللفظ مستخدماً عند أهالي مناطق الجبال بالمنطقة الشمالية الشرقية في الإمارات، ويأتي اللفظ بين «قحوي» أو «قهوي»، وأياً كان المسمى، فهي تمنح الطاقة للجسد، وتُحفّز العواطف للعمل، وتُحرّض الفكر على البحث.

وهو مشروبٌ من أصل حبشي عربي نابت من شجرة نفّاذة بأنواعها المختلفة، ومصنوع من بذور محمصة، لتخرج منها النكهات والروائح المتباينة، ورغم بلد المنشأ إلا أن القهوة الآن تأتي من بلدان عديدة في هذا العالم، ليصبح المناخ الاستوائي أهم ما يُقدّم لزرعها، ويتطور بالتالي إلى ما يسمى باقتصاد البُن العالمي، وها هو الآن يحفزنا إلى الخوض في تاريخ القهوة.

حضور

في أيامنا هذه أصبحت القهوة حاضرة في كل المناسبات الاجتماعية والتعليمية والسياسية والاقتصادية، حضوراً قوياً وبكل ألوانها الفوّاحة، فالمتفق عليه عالمياً أنها من جهة محفّزة للعمل والقرارات والدراسات، ومن جهة أخرى مُؤثّرة في العقل البشري، فلم يكن ما يصدها، لتأخذ مزارع البُن في التوسع يوماً بعد يوم بعد أن بَنَتْ تلك البذور لها مكانتها اللائقة في أسواق التصدير للتجارة الدولية.

لغوياً

وكما أتى تفسير القهوة في قاموس اللغة العربية، فإنها «الخمر» في تراث العرب قبل الإسلام، كما فُسّرت بأنها الشراب المغلي واللبن المحض، أما بعض القواميس فذهبت لتفسر القهوة بالخِصْب، أما اليوم فاللفظ أخذ منحى اللقاء، بوصفها مقهى ومحفلاً للتلاقي، ليتطور إلى مناخ يومي وضروري، وعند البعض طقس شرب ومزاج لا يمكن الاستغناء عنه.

ولادة

وإذا علمنا أن البُن في أصله نبتة مزروعة وبالتالي ثمرة فشجرة، فأين إذاً أصل ولادتها ومسقط رأسها ومنشؤها قبل أن تصل إلى كل شعوب الأرض؟ ولأننا نريد لهذا النبات وصفاً وهوية، عُدنا إلى الموسوعة الفرنسية لنجد أنها نشأت أولاً في الحبشة، (أي أثيوبيا، ليصبح هذا البلد أصل القهوة وتاريخها، وذهب باحثون آخرون بتوثيق تلك الأشجار بأنها من جنس القهوة وأنها من عائلة عربية، أو كما يطلقون عليها «أرابيكا كوفي» وهي من أقدم الأشجار المزروعة، لتأتي بعدها الأنواع الأخرى من ثمرة قهوة حمراء وأرجوانية وصفراء ليصفها البعض بكرز القهوة، وتبدو الحبّة مغلقة في هيكل شبه جامد وشفاف، حتى حين يتم تنظيفها تظل حبوب البن خضراء محاطة ببشرة فضية ملتصقة بها لتتطابق مع البذرة والتي يمكن طحنها.

يقول أحد مزارعي البُن إن هذه الثمرة العطِرة والجميلة وبالأخص العربية منها، بأنها حساسة جداً وبحاجة إلى مناخ بارد نوعاً ما، إذ تلائمها الأراضي المنخفضة، بينما المرتفعة كالجبال فهي أقل إنتاجية هناك.

لكن الإنسان وبطبيعته الفكرية وبمرور الزمن، يجدد ما لديه، ليذهب إلى تهجين القهوة بتلقيحها فيسهل عليه الإنتاج «الجيني» الجديد، ويمهد لإخراج هذا المشروب الغني بالكافيين بطعم مختلف وأحياناً نادر، وبالتالي يُصنّف فاخراً، وهذا ما فعلته هولندا، فالتعديل الوراثي أصبح من أهم التجارب العالمية الجديدة خاصة فيما يتعلق بالحقول والزراعة.

أعداء القهوة

جميعنا يعلم أن إيقاع هذا العالم غامض بعض الأحيان، وإلا من أين يظهر الأعداء، وكيف تتغير المصائر؟ وكذلك القهوة ظهرت لها فطريات تسمى «صدأ القهوة»، فبعد مشاهدتنا برنامجاً خاصاً عن القهوة، لاحظنا خروج طفيليات قاتلة تهاجم أوراق الثمرة لتمنحها لوناً مختلفاً، وهذا النوع من الطفيليات الخبيثة ذات التأثير البطيء لا تستطيع الثمرة أن تقاومها كل وقت، لتصبح العلاقة بينهما مجابهة بين الهزيمة والانتصار.

هجرة القهوة

نعود من جديد للقهوة ذات اللون الشاحب والمرارة الساخنة والشهية، والتي أخذت بالانتشار من أثيوبيا منذ القرن 15، إلى الإمبراطورية العثمانية والتي ستسيطر عليها، وباسمها الحبشي «كافا» ليعتمدها الأتراك، ومن ثم تدخل عبر تجارة البحر الأبيض المتوسط إلى مدينة البندقية في إيطاليا عام 1610، لتعتمدها بعد ذلك بريطانيا باسم «كوفي».

وقد أتى ذلك من مؤلف كتاب «الشاي والشوكولا» سيلفستر دوفور، وهو يشرح عن تجارة التوابل، هذه التجارة الكبرى وفنّ تذوّق القهوة رسمياً في أوروبا حين بدأ عن طريق السفارة العثمانية هناك، لتأخذها تركيا بمسمى القهوة التركية «تركش» وتُقدم بأسلوب تركي عصري حينها.

بين «الكافيه» و«المخا»

حين دخلت القهوة إلى فرنسا، واعتُمِدت تحت مسمى «كافيه» بعد أن خرجت بتصريح رسمي من حكومتها، وبعد الفحص في مختبراتها ووصف شجرة المنتج ببذورها ومزارعها، وحتى امتحان التحميص، أخذت القهوة براءتها كاملة لتجلس مُعتمدة في مجالس الفرنسيين.

لكن هناك تقرير جميل كتبه تاجر يدعى فيليب عام 1685، كان يتاجر في التوابل، يذكر كيف كان يتم نقل القهوة من ميناء المخا اليمنية ومنذ 4 آلاف عام، مؤكداً أنها نمت للمرة الأولى في اليمن، لتصل إلى موانئ البحر الأحمر القديمة، حيث ميناء السويس وجدة وغيرها بعد تحميلها على السفن.

بالطبع كانت هناك وسائل أخرى للنقل، وهي الطرق البرية والنقل فوق الجمال، وقافلة طويلة فيما بعد تذهب إلى الحج مع الحجيج قبل الإسلام، وبالتالي إلى دمشق وحلب، ليصبح الاكتشاف في القرن 15 وانتشارها في القرن 16 و17 متأخراً، فهناك بدايات منسية تعود إلى آلاف السنين، ليؤكد بأن القهوة عربية الأصل والمنشأ.

أدباء ومشاهير من أعظم شاربيها

المفكر والكاتب الفرنسي فولتير الذي عاش في القرن 18، أي في عصر التنوير وانتشار القهوة، تجاوز استهلاكه ما يصل إلى 12 فنجاناً كبيراً من القهوة يومياً، وأخذت الكمية تزداد حتى مات بالقهوة حسب تقرير طبيبه الذي كتب أنه قد توفي بالـ«كافيين»، ففي سنواته الأخيرة زادت كمية شربه إلى 54 فنجاناً يومياً، مشتهراً بقوله «لا شيء يتم دون قهوة» خاصة بعد تحذير أصدقائه من الكميات غير المعقولة التي يتناولها، لخطورتها على صحته، ومع ذلك لم يبال بأقوالهم وعاش حتى بلغ من العمر 84 عاماً.

وفي أراضي النمسا كان «بيتهوفن» يشرب يومياً ما يعادل 60 حبة من القهوة في كل كأس، خاصة أثناء إبداعه موسيقاه ووضع اللحن، وكذلك الفيلسوف الدنماركي «كيركيغارد» الذي اشتهر بطريقته غير المعتادة لصناعة قهوته، فكما أتى في مذكراته أنه كان يملأ قهوته بالكثير من السكر، ويستهلك يومياً حوالي 50 كأساً.

وإن ذهبنا إلى الموسيقي يوهان باخ، فكان عنواناً للقهوة بعد أن وصل الذروة في استهلاكها، كما يشهد البعض بأنها لم تخل من مشاكل اجتماعية حدثت بسبب الإدمان عليها، خاصة بين الطبقات المبدعة والمشهورة.

وأخيراً لم يمنع الساسة أنفسهم من شرب القهوة، وبلا شك فإننا لا نستطيع أن نتجاهل أهم الشخصيات السياسية، وهو الرئيس 26 للولايات المتحدة الأميركية، فرانكلين روزفلت الذي كان يشرب 4 ليترات من القهوة في اليوم، وهي كمية أقرب للخيال، فكما ذكر ابنه في مذكراته: «الأمر كان أشبه بحوض استحمام».

أسطورة الاكتشاف وأيقونة العصر الحديث

ثمة أسطورة حول اكتشاف القهوة تقول إن راعياً للغنم جعل رعيه تستهلك أثماراً في مكان ما وهو لا يعلم أنها ثمار بُن القهوة، ليكتسب المرعى حيوية كاملة، وهذا ما أدى إلى فضول الراعي لاكتشاف أثمار الشجرة وبالتالي اكتشف القهوة.

ومنذ تلك الأسطورة الحبشية، أصبحت أكثر المدن المستخدمة للقهوة وهي الأغنى والأكثر استقراراً ونماءً، بل أصبح البُن علامة حضارية وفكرية، ليتمتع الأشخاص الذين يشربونها أمام المتسوقين في الـ«مولات» من أصحاب الرخاء الاجتماعي والرقي السلوكي، ويلعب فنجان القهوة الأنيق والخزفي والبراق فوق الطاولات وبين أيدي من يصنعها بمهارة، مظهراً من مظاهر العصر.

القهوة بين لذّة اللقاء وألم الحظر

من أشجار البُن الشابّة والتي تبلغ من العمر 3 أعوام، إلى أشجار كبرى في المزارع ذات الإنتاج الوفير، نعود إلى القرن 15 ليتم فتح المقاهي الخاصة بهذه النكهة المُحفّزة للعقل والجسد وأمام طاولات الشطرنج وإلقاء القصائد، وذات السعر المنخفض، ليستخدمها الجميع ويلتقي حولها جميع طبقات المجتمع، حتى تم إعلان حظرها من السلطان العثماني في كل أراضيه بما فيها مصر، لاشتباه المشروب بالنبيذ المُسكر، ومن يشرب هذه القهوة يتعرض للاضطهاد، رغم محاولة البعض الدفاع عن هذا المشروب لكونه صحياً للذهن والبدن.

أصول الضيافة العربية في الإمارات والخليج

في دولة الإمارات ودول الخليج العربي، فإن أصل الضيافة فيها القهوة العربية، تقدم في فناجين دائرية صغيرة مع تمر أو حلوى، بينما كل ما يحدث هذه الأيام في الضيافات العائلية صباحاً أو عصراً من مأكولات وأصناف نعرفها ولا نعرفها فهي دخيلة على العادات وتراث الاستقبال الراسخ في ذهن الأوائل، ليتجاوز البعض الأعراف بغية الوصول إلى مفهوم الكرم، محملاً معنىً آخر نستطيع أن نقول عنه حمولة ثقل التبدل والتغير.

غير أننا ما زلنا نلامس الضيافة على أصولها في قصور الضيافة والمجالس الكبرى، ومهما تقدم الزمن فالقهوة العربية ما زالت تتجلى حضوراً بين الضيوف، لتصبح الرمز الأهم والأسمى للاستقبال.

1630

أنشئ في هذا العام بالقسطنطينية «بيت القهوة»، لتنتشر بيوت القهوة سريعاً وبكميات كبيرة عبر مدن العالم تدريجياً حتى أصبحت القهوة فيما بعد شراب المتعة والضيوف ورواة القصص.

1672

في هذا العام أسس باسكال الأرمن المقهى الأول في باريس، وكان ذلك بالقرب من جسر «نيوف»، وهو ذاته مؤسس مقهى في لندن عام 1685، حيث اخترع طريقة جديدة لصنع القهوة.

1675

سجل هذا العام شرب القهوة للمرة الأولى في بلجيكا وتحديداً قرب قلعة «فيرير» بحضور لويس الرابع عشر، حيث قدّم له دبلوماسي تركي مشروب القهوة بمناسبة معاهدة اتفاقية «فيرير» ليطلق عليها البعض «اتفاقية القهوة».

المصدر: ريم الكمالي صحيفة البيان

https://www.albayan.ae/five-senses/culture/2018-11-05-1.3401175

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[:ar]Privacy Policy for qahwa world At qahwaworld, accessible from qahwaworld.com, one of our main priorities is the privacy of our visitors. This Privacy Policy document contains types of information that is collected and recorded by qahwaworld and how we use it. If you have additional questions or require more information about our Privacy Policy, do not hesitate to contact us. This Privacy Policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website with regards to the information that they shared and/or collect in qahwaworld. This policy is not applicable to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website. Our Privacy Policy was created with the help of the Free Privacy Policy Generator. Consent By using our website, you hereby consent to our Privacy Policy and agree to its terms. 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Privacy Policy for Qahwa World

At Qahwa World, accessible from https://qahwaworld.com, one of our main priorities is the privacy of our visitors. This Privacy Policy document contains types of information that is collected and recorded by Qahwa World and how we use it. If you have additional questions or require more information about our Privacy Policy, do not hesitate to contact us. This Privacy Policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website with regards to the information that they shared and/or collect in Qahwa World. This policy is not applicable to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website. Our Privacy Policy was created with the help of the Free Privacy Policy Generator.

Consent

By using our website, you hereby consent to our Privacy Policy and agree to its terms.

Information we collect

The personal information that you are asked to provide, and the reasons why you are asked to provide it, will be made clear to you at the point we ask you to provide your personal information. If you contact us directly, we may receive additional information about you such as your name, email address, phone number, the contents of the message and/or attachments you may send us, and any other information you may choose to provide. When you register for an Account, we may ask for your contact information, including items such as name, company name, address, email address, and telephone number.

How we use your information

We use the information we collect in various ways, including to:
  • Provide, operate, and maintain our website
  • Improve, personalize, and expand our website
  • Understand and analyze how you use our website
  • Develop new products, services, features, and functionality
  • Communicate with you, either directly or through one of our partners, including for customer service, to provide you with updates and other information relating to the website, and for marketing and promotional purposes
  • Send you emails
  • Find and prevent fraud

Log Files

Qahwa World follows a standard procedure of using log files. These files log visitors when they visit websites. All hosting companies do this and a part of hosting services' analytics. The information collected by log files include internet protocol (IP) addresses, browser type, Internet Service Provider (ISP), date and time stamp, referring/exit pages, and possibly the number of clicks. These are not linked to any information that is personally identifiable. The purpose of the information is for analyzing trends, administering the site, tracking users' movement on the website, and gathering demographic information.

Cookies and Web Beacons

Like any other website, Qahwa World uses 'cookies'. These cookies are used to store information including visitors' preferences, and the pages on the website that the visitor accessed or visited. The information is used to optimize the users' experience by customizing our web page content based on visitors' browser type and/or other information. For more general information on cookies, please read the Cookies article on Generate Privacy Policy website.

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Google is one of a third-party vendor on our site. It also uses cookies, known as DART cookies, to serve ads to our site visitors based upon their visit to www.website.com and other sites on the internet. However, visitors may choose to decline the use of DART cookies by visiting the Google ad and content network Privacy Policy at the following URL – https://policies.google.com/technologies/ads

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Some of advertisers on our site may use cookies and web beacons. Our advertising partners are listed below. Each of our advertising partners has their own Privacy Policy for their policies on user data. For easier access, we hyperlinked to their Privacy Policies below.

Advertising Partners Privacy Policies

You may consult this list to find the Privacy Policy for each of the advertising partners of Qahwa World. Third-party ad servers or ad networks uses technologies like cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons that are used in their respective advertisements and links that appear on Qahwa World, which are sent directly to users' browser. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. These technologies are used to measure the effectiveness of their advertising campaigns and/or to personalize the advertising content that you see on websites that you visit. Note that Qahwa World has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers.

Third Party Privacy Policies

Qahwa World's Privacy Policy does not apply to other advertisers or websites. Thus, we are advising you to consult the respective Privacy Policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information. It may include their practices and instructions about how to opt-out of certain options. You can choose to disable cookies through your individual browser options. To know more detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers, it can be found at the browsers' respective websites.

CCPA Privacy Rights (Do Not Sell My Personal Information)

Under the CCPA, among other rights, California consumers have the right to: Request that a business that collects a consumer's personal data disclose the categories and specific pieces of personal data that a business has collected about consumers. Request that a business delete any personal data about the consumer that a business has collected. Request that a business that sells a consumer's personal data, not sell the consumer's personal data. If you make a request, we have one month to respond to you. If you would like to exercise any of these rights, please contact us.

GDPR Data Protection Rights

We would like to make sure you are fully aware of all of your data protection rights. Every user is entitled to the following: The right to access – You have the right to request copies of your personal data. We may charge you a small fee for this service. The right to rectification – You have the right to request that we correct any information you believe is inaccurate. You also have the right to request that we complete the information you believe is incomplete. The right to erasure – You have the right to request that we erase your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to restrict processing – You have the right to request that we restrict the processing of your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to object to processing – You have the right to object to our processing of your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to data portability – You have the right to request that we transfer the data that we have collected to another organization, or directly to you, under certain conditions. If you make a request, we have one month to respond to you. If you would like to exercise any of these rights, please contact us.

Children's Information

Another part of our priority is adding protection for children while using the internet. We encourage parents and guardians to observe, participate in, and/or monitor and guide their online activity. Qahwa World does not knowingly collect any Personal Identifiable Information from children under the age of 13. If you think that your child provided this kind of information on our website, we strongly encourage you to contact us immediately and we will do our best efforts to promptly remove such information from our records.[:ru]Privacy Policy for qahwa world At qahwaworld, accessible from qahwaworld.com, one of our main priorities is the privacy of our visitors. This Privacy Policy document contains types of information that is collected and recorded by qahwaworld and how we use it. If you have additional questions or require more information about our Privacy Policy, do not hesitate to contact us. This Privacy Policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website with regards to the information that they shared and/or collect in qahwaworld. This policy is not applicable to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website. Our Privacy Policy was created with the help of the Free Privacy Policy Generator. Consent By using our website, you hereby consent to our Privacy Policy and agree to its terms. Information we collect The personal information that you are asked to provide, and the reasons why you are asked to provide it, will be made clear to you at the point we ask you to provide your personal information. If you contact us directly, we may receive additional information about you such as your name, email address, phone number, the contents of the message and/or attachments you may send us, and any other information you may choose to provide. When you register for an Account, we may ask for your contact information, including items such as name, company name, address, email address, and telephone number. How we use your information We use the information we collect in various ways, including to: Provide, operate, and maintain our website Improve, personalize, and expand our website Understand and analyze how you use our website Develop new products, services, features, and functionality Communicate with you, either directly or through one of our partners, including for customer service, to provide you with updates and other information relating to the website, and for marketing and promotional purposes Send you emails Find and prevent fraud Log Files qahwaworld follows a standard procedure of using log files. These files log visitors when they visit websites. All hosting companies do this and a part of hosting services' analytics. The information collected by log files include internet protocol (IP) addresses, browser type, Internet Service Provider (ISP), date and time stamp, referring/exit pages, and possibly the number of clicks. These are not linked to any information that is personally identifiable. The purpose of the information is for analyzing trends, administering the site, tracking users' movement on the website, and gathering demographic information. Cookies and Web Beacons Like any other website, qahwaworld uses 'cookies'. These cookies are used to store information including visitors' preferences, and the pages on the website that the visitor accessed or visited. The information is used to optimize the users' experience by customizing our web page content based on visitors' browser type and/or other information. For more general information on cookies, please read the Cookies article on Generate Privacy Policy website. Google DoubleClick DART Cookie Google is one of a third-party vendor on our site. It also uses cookies, known as DART cookies, to serve ads to our site visitors based upon their visit to www.website.com and other sites on the internet. However, visitors may choose to decline the use of DART cookies by visiting the Google ad and content network Privacy Policy at the following URL – https://policies.google.com/technologies/ads Our Advertising Partners Some of advertisers on our site may use cookies and web beacons. Our advertising partners are listed below. Each of our advertising partners has their own Privacy Policy for their policies on user data. For easier access, we hyperlinked to their Privacy Policies below. Google https://policies.google.com/technologies/ads Advertising Partners Privacy Policies You may consult this list to find the Privacy Policy for each of the advertising partners of qahwaworld. Third-party ad servers or ad networks uses technologies like cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons that are used in their respective advertisements and links that appear on qahwaworld, which are sent directly to users' browser. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. These technologies are used to measure the effectiveness of their advertising campaigns and/or to personalize the advertising content that you see on websites that you visit. Note that qahwaworld has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers. Third Party Privacy Policies qahwaworld's Privacy Policy does not apply to other advertisers or websites. Thus, we are advising you to consult the respective Privacy Policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information. It may include their practices and instructions about how to opt-out of certain options. You can choose to disable cookies through your individual browser options. To know more detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers, it can be found at the browsers' respective websites. CCPA Privacy Rights (Do Not Sell My Personal Information) Under the CCPA, among other rights, California consumers have the right to: Request that a business that collects a consumer's personal data disclose the categories and specific pieces of personal data that a business has collected about consumers. Request that a business delete any personal data about the consumer that a business has collected. Request that a business that sells a consumer's personal data, not sell the consumer's personal data. If you make a request, we have one month to respond to you. If you would like to exercise any of these rights, please contact us. GDPR Data Protection Rights We would like to make sure you are fully aware of all of your data protection rights. Every user is entitled to the following: The right to access – You have the right to request copies of your personal data. We may charge you a small fee for this service. The right to rectification – You have the right to request that we correct any information you believe is inaccurate. You also have the right to request that we complete the information you believe is incomplete. The right to erasure – You have the right to request that we erase your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to restrict processing – You have the right to request that we restrict the processing of your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to object to processing – You have the right to object to our processing of your personal data, under certain conditions. The right to data portability – You have the right to request that we transfer the data that we have collected to another organization, or directly to you, under certain conditions. If you make a request, we have one month to respond to you. If you would like to exercise any of these rights, please contact us. Children's Information Another part of our priority is adding protection for children while using the internet. We encourage parents and guardians to observe, participate in, and/or monitor and guide their online activity. qahwaworld does not knowingly collect any Personal Identifiable Information from children under the age of 13. If you think that your child provided this kind of information on our website, we strongly encourage you to contact us immediately and we will do our best efforts to promptly remove such information from our records.[:]
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