By: Lucy Wen
When coffee first arrived in China, people didn’t even know what to call it. Some called it “Black Wine.” Others drank it as a digestive aid. At one point, it was even sold in pharmacies as cough medicine. While this seems amusing today, it reveals a key lesson: how a completely foreign product enters a new market.
Stage One: When Coffee Was Just Functional
In the earliest records, coffee wasn’t a lifestyle or cultural symbol. It was simply something foreigners drank after meals to aid digestion. Naturally, people interpreted it based on what they knew: a dark liquid plus post-meal use became “Black Wine.” At this stage, coffee wasn’t “coffee”; it was a functional product trying to fit into an existing category. In 1853, at the Old Deji Pharmacy in Shanghai, coffee was even sold as “cough syrup.”
Stage Two: When the Market Tries to Make Sense of It
As coffee became more visible, understanding didn’t come immediately. Different names appeared, and interpretations varied. Some saw it as medicine, others as a novelty drink. This confusion wasn’t rejection; it was the market trying to understand. When a product is new, people evaluate it through familiar categories rather than on its own terms.
Stage Three: When Understanding Becomes Standard
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that one name, “coffee” (咖啡), became widely accepted. That marked the start of broader consumption. Once people agreed on what the product was, they could decide whether they wanted it. Language didn’t just describe coffee; it unlocked the market.
Lessons for Coffee Businesses Today
Working with coffee machines and international trade reveals a similar pattern in emerging markets. The challenge is often not naming; it’s understanding. Customers aren’t just asking, “Which machine is better?” They are asking: What is espresso? Why does pressure matter? Is this a daily drink or a business opportunity? The gap is not the product itself; it’s education. Sometimes, people need clarity on what a machine does before they are ready to buy it.
The Real Takeaway
China didn’t just take time to accept coffee; it took time to understand it. Entering a new market is not about pushing products. It’s about translating value. Before someone buys your machine, they need to understand the experience behind it. Once they do, everything else becomes much easier.
