Harmony in a Cup: Felipe Barretto Croce’s Coffee Symphony
Felipe Barretto Croce, a passionate coffee expert from Sao Paulo, Brazil, recently embarked on his first visit to the Middle East, specifically the UAE. Representing FAFCoffees, Felipe’s journey is driven by a desire to understand the local culture, explore market potential, and establish long-term relationships with potential partners and roasters. His enthusiasm is evident as he shares his experiences and insights into the evolving coffee landscape. In a special interview with QahwaWorld on the sidelines of his attendance at the closing day of the 2024 Emirates Aeropress Championship in Dubai, Felipe delves into the vibrant coffee culture and market dynamics of the region.
Felipe’s observations from his travels to Jordan, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi reveal a dynamic and growing coffee market. He notes that each place has its unique characteristics, but overall, the market is in a very good moment with great coffees and excellent roasting. In Jordan, he sees a need for more focus on education, while in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, he finds the scene very modern and progressive. Despite it being the off-season, Felipe is impressed by the bustling coffee shops filled with patrons.
Felipe sees a unique potential for growing specialty coffee in the region, attributing it to the community-based nature of Arabic people. He points out the vibrant social interactions in coffee shops, which contrasts with the more solitary coffee culture in the Western world. This lively coffee culture, combined with the younger generation’s new ways of enjoying coffee, makes the region ripe for specialty coffee growth. He also finds similarities between Brazil and the Arab world, especially in their shared love for coffee and warm climates. Brazil’s significant Arab population further bridges the cultural gap, making it easier for Brazilian coffee to find a place in the Middle Eastern market.
Discussing the potential for entering the Middle Eastern market, Felipe highlights Brazil’s robust coffee production, which accounts for 40% of the world’s coffee. He emphasizes the importance of helping both cultures understand each other since there are many types of Brazilian farmers and coffees. Felipe works with high-end coffee, different from Brazil’s traditional reputation for cheaper coffee. He believes that finding roasters who want to do something different is key and is optimistic about the meetings he has had, showcasing Brazilian coffee’s true potential, which he believes is changing rapidly.
Felipe’s approach to coffee is unique. He likens coffee to a song, combining genetics, terroir, and processing to create a unique balance in the cup. His company, Faf Coffees, focuses on agroforestry, which revitalizes the soil and results in a more intense and flavorful cup of coffee. This method brings life back to the soil, leading to a richer coffee experience.
When discussing the volatility of the coffee market due to climate change, Felipe predicts a challenging road ahead but anticipates more stability by 2026. He warns that if farming and business practices do not evolve, the industry could face significant problems in about ten years. Addressing European regulations (EUDR), Felipe advocates for a balanced approach. While he agrees with the need to stop deforestation, he stresses the importance of supporting farmers through the transition. He believes that regulations should be implemented in a way that helps farmers adapt and learn regenerative farming practices, rather than simply imposing laws.
Despite the challenges, Felipe remains optimistic about the future. He believes in the power of human innovation and the strength of diverse cultures. Highlighting initiatives like sending coffee to Europe on a sailboat and practicing large-scale agroforestry, Felipe is confident in finding sustainable solutions. He acknowledges that farming takes time and the rapid changes pose challenges, but he believes that life’s challenges and joys go hand in hand.
Felipe Barreto Croce’s insights reflect a profound understanding of the coffee industry and its potential in new markets. His commitment to sustainability and quality, coupled with an optimistic outlook, positions him as a visionary in the world of specialty coffee. His journey is not just about expanding market reach but also about fostering cultural exchange and sustainable practices in the coffee industry.
